WHAT EXACTLY does 24-karat gold add to a plate of risotto? That was the question in the back of my mind as I approached the imposing four-story facade of Tre, which is on the broad plaza of the 1st on Main building in downtown Carmel. A towering wire figure sculpted by artist Jason Myers stands almost as sentinel beside deep blue and windowless doors, behind which is Chris Evans’ high-ceilinged third and unquestionably most ambitious Italian effort, following his two-location pasta spot, Sangiovese. And from the hard-to-snag reservations to the crowds of smiling guests, it’s clear that this is the Italian restaurant many Carmel residents have been awaiting. 

Indeed, a press release in early April made the bold claims that Evans’ 4,800-square-foot “passion project,” which he says is his final restaurant, would offer a “diverse menu” and “exquisite art” to make diners fall “in love with life all over again.” And risotto with edible gold, which most piqued my curiosity. I also wanted to see the polish three decades of running restaurants would bring to Evans’ latest.

Well after its first months of business, however, the menu (which the website warned was temporary) was riddled with typos, not just in obscure culinary terms but also in everyday words like “romaine” and even “gold.” A chef change that brought in former Prime 47 chef Oscar Perez meant the kitchen was still getting on its feet, as well. A promising fried squash blossom starter, while pretty on the plate, was so heavily battered it was limp, not crisp, with a tasty enough but runny red pepper filling.

A platter of fresh oysters came with no explanation of the types from our server. They were presented beautifully, with a brisk mignonette and horseradish-forward cocktail sauce, but the oysters’ adductor muscles weren’t detached, as is customary. That left us to wrestle the flesh out with our Lilliputian forks, not always successfully. A Cognac West from the ambitious cocktail menu was watery and lacked bite. We wondered if the interior design—which included a row of curved brass tubes behind the bar and chandeliers of offset blown glass discs—would be the tastiest part of the meal. 

Thankfully, salads and entrees showed more promise. A tidy mound of roasted red and golden beets, though missing promised watermelon radishes, had a lavish amount of creamy burrata and the right hit of reduced balsamic. Leaning on Evans’ Sangiovese playbook, a generous bowl of pappardelle with “Sunday sauce” was as satisfying as it sounds, especially owing to the short rib in the ragu. The one dish that lived up to the setting was a simply styled yet arresting pan-seared halibut with risotto, which our server steered us toward instead of the one with gold. Here, the gilt was on the crust of the halibut, which broke away in lush flakes above a pool of buttery marsala sauce and truffle-scented risotto with the perfect tooth and creaminess, some of the best I’ve ever had.  

Many of Tre’s early, somewhat puzzling missteps may have been emended by now, given the hard work of Evans’ general manager Francesco Settanni, a native of Puglia, Italy, who arrives early each day to advise the staff. Settanni came to Evans’ restaurants in 2021 after over two decades working at New York City standards, including one used by actor Stanley Tucci in his research for the classic dining film Big Night.

Settani recites regional Italian dishes by heart and waxes poetic about the staples of his home region. Given Settanni’s vast knowledge, as well as local diners’ growing awareness of regional dishes, Tre would be wise to reconsider its commitment to the trappings of luxury in favor of dishes that truly reflect their origins in Liguria, Campania, or Emilia-Romagna.

Instead, there’s a ubiquitous Caesar salad, which we tried on a return visit, perfectly serviceable but so lightly touched on the grill there was hardly any of the advertised char. There’s a delicious pork chop parmigiana, an eye-popping breaded, bone-in cut that’s swathed in house red sauce and bubbling with smoked mozzarella.

And, yes, there’s risotto with gold, which turned out to be a mashup of risotto Milanese and spaghetti carbonara. Visually, it’s stunning—more than answering my question. But with egg in the rice, as well as a raw yolk under the gold leaf, not to mention bits of pancetta and so much saffron the dish glowed, it was almost too rich to finish. I pined for what I’d had with the halibut.

Having tried the respectable tiramisu the first time, we asked what other desserts were made in-house. Our server brought us two scoops of lemon sorbetto the chef was testing, which proved to be bright, creamy, and lusciously true-tasting, a final bite showing a culinary artistry that one hopes, with time, will match the art on the walls.

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WRITING about St. Elmo is like writing about the Grand Canyon: You can spend a thousand words on the institution, but you really have to be there to get it. This iconic Indy steakhouse is nationally known as the place for a big slab of aged, Black Angus beef that’s always cooked to perfection; its shrimp cocktail and bourbon list are also in every travel guide to the city. It’s been in operation in the same location since 1902, and we expect it will remain there—with tables regularly full—long after we’re all gone.

127 S. Illinois St., 317-635-0636, stelmos.com

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CHEF KYLE HUMPHREYS learned the ramen game in Japan, then came to Indy to ply his noodle trade at Lil Dumplings and his Shoyu Shop pop-up. Soon enough, brothers Neal and Paul Warner lured Humphreys into Strange Bird, their Irvington tiki bar. The pairing is made in heaven, as Humphreys’ peerless, high-level menu of noodle and ramen dishes is right at home with the bar’s rum-forward, Apocalypse soonish ethos. And though Humphreys was trained by some of the best and most traditional ramen chefs in the world, his shop isn’t stuffy or rigid—non-Japanese dishes such as wings, oysters, and a nice key lime pie also make the menu cut.

128 S. Audubon Rd., 317-550-4115, strangebirdindy.com

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AFTER RELOCATING to a North Keystone storefront in late 2023, this gem was able to spread its wings and offer a full menu of spice-rich dishes from Indonesia’s islands. Classics like long-simmered beef rendang and comforting nasi goreng are complete meals themselves, served with eggs, rice, and fresh garnishes.

But sharing a selection of the country’s savory street snacks is also fun, especially when you start with martabak, a layered omelet served either savory or sweet; dumplings, crispy fried pastel pastries filled with vermicelli and tasty veggies; and battered tempeh mendoan. The bare-bones decor is still taking shape, but the charm comes from the friendly service and the excellent food.

2450 E. 71st St., 317-756-9477, wpawon.com

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JEFF MINER’S fluffy-crusted Detroit-style pies are unlike any you’ve had before. Sure, they have the standard cheddar edge and sauce and cheese toppings, but Miner’s self-taught process of dough mixing, fermentation, and firing makes for a uniquely light crust that you’ll keep thinking about long after your visit.

Sam’s began as a pop-up and moved into its 10th Street space earlier this year, which means some service and supply chain kinks are still being unraveled. One thing that makes those fixes easier is Miner’s laser focus on pizza, a gaze so intent that the only sides are garlic knots and cheese bread. Since both are based around Miner’s innovative magic with gluten, that’s really all you need.

2829 E. 10th St., samssquarepie.com

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ONLY A FEW of us will get to enjoy this spot’s sold-out-a-year-in-advance chef’s table experience, which costs more than many Hoosiers pay on their monthly mortgage. But the market and restaurant’s daily lunch knows no such bounds, and it’s delicious enough to merit inclusion on this list, alone.

Now under the stewardship of chef partners Logan McMahan and Erin Kem, the seasonal menu is displayed above a register typically occupied by a … let’s just say stoic staffer. That’s OK, you’re not here to make friends, and when they bring your meal to your seat in the cafeteria-style dining space, all slights are forgotten. The handmade pastas, house-created sauces, and sandwiches and salads—which are substantial but still bright enough not to send you to your nap couch—are that good.

1134 E. 54th St., 317-257-7374, nicoletaylorspasta.com

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IT’S BEEN 10 years since Jonathan Brooks opened Milktooth in a former auto shop, serving brunch and lunch on mismatched china in a dining room scattered with vintage tables and chairs. It’s seen leadership changes and menu shifts over the years, some more controversial than others, but the lines never seem to die down—a Saturday table at the indoor/outdoor restaurant is a true score.

But it’s not just a scene, as the food has remained consistently strong, with the kitchen crew pushing the boundaries between sweet and savory every day. Like Brooks’ other restaurant, Beholder, Milktooth’s menu changes on a whim, but during a recent visit, the ramp-loaded, savory Dutch baby pancake, the latkes with smoked salmon, and a carrot cake waffle stole the show. It’s hard to stay cool for a whole decade, but Milktooth has pulled it off.

534 Virginia Ave., 317-986-5131, milktoothindy.com

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ADAM AND Alicia Sweet’s wood-fired pizza shop began in Bloomington, but it came into its own once it arrived in the Circle City. Its indoor/outdoor space is packed no matter the weather with folks seeking the restaurant’s bubbly and charred-crust pies topped with the usual sauce and mozz, or less common items like Gorgonzola or peppadew.

Salads are massive and packed with ingredients—the Shop salad, with pickled onions, mozzarella, and croutons, is an adult version of the pizza shop salads you begrudgingly picked at as a kid. Those who eschew pizza will be satisfied with King Dough’s wings (there’s a cauliflower version, too) or burger. Dining in is ideal, but carryout service (which operates from a separate door and counter) is fast and efficient.

452 N. Highland Ave., 317-602-7960; 12505 Old Meridian St., Carmel, 317-669-2201, kingdoughpizzas.com

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INDY’S FINE dining scene doesn’t get much finer than Vida, the James Beard–recognized set menu spot from Indy’s Cunningham Restaurant Group. Your options are a six-course tasting menu or a four-course dinner with multiple options, so this is not the place where saying, “Oh, just the salad for me,” will fly.

On a recent visit, those menus included a caviar-stacked poached oyster, a black truffle–laden wagyu ribeye, and a fried chicken thigh with kale and pickled ramps. Oenophiles take note: because Vida’s somm team uses a special Coravin extraction system, they’re able to safely crack bottles to offer unusual and unexpected pairings of wines by the glass. Spirits fans are also well-served, as the full bar boasts a lineup of hard-to-find and rare bottles, as well.

601 E. New York St., 317-420-2323, vida-restaurant.com

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ESTEBAN ROSAS and Gabriel Sañudo’s taqueria turns two this year, and the excellent-from-the-jump taco shop has evolved with the times. The pegboard menu has been replaced by a Stutz-appropriate retro sign on the wall, a message, perhaps, that they finally believe they’re here to stay. The list is brief: tacos, quesadillas, or tortas, with a short list of toppings and add-ons.

Your side options are rice, beans, or both. All are presented with a confident simplicity that will slowly and surely turn you into a queso-declining taco snob. There are still regular specials, such as a pork shoulder tamal or a Mission-style burrito; if ceviche is on the list, snap it up. Drinks are limited to water and soda, but those seeking the harder stuff need only take a seat at Turner’s next door: Julieta has a service window that opens directly into the bar.

1060 N. Capitol Ave., @julieta_tacoshop

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