Photograph by Tony Valainis
IT’S BEEN 10 years since Jonathan Brooks opened Milktooth in a former auto shop, serving brunch and lunch on mismatched china in a dining room scattered with vintage tables and chairs. It’s seen leadership changes and menu shifts over the years, some more controversial than others, but the lines never seem to die down—a Saturday table at the indoor/outdoor restaurant is a true score.
But it’s not just a scene, as the food has remained consistently strong, with the kitchen crew pushing the boundaries between sweet and savory every day. Like Brooks’ other restaurant, Beholder, Milktooth’s menu changes on a whim, but during a recent visit, the ramp-loaded, savory Dutch baby pancake, the latkes with smoked salmon, and a carrot cake waffle stole the show. It’s hard to stay cool for a whole decade, but Milktooth has pulled it off.
534 Virginia Ave., 317-986-5131, milktoothindy.com
