Photograph by Tony Valainis
THE LATEST effort from Indy’s near-ubiquitous Cunningham Restaurant Group isn’t as scalable a template as its Bru Burger, Livery, or Stone Creek brands. This glossy fine dining spot, which is just steps from Gainbridge Fieldhouse, plays more like a place made to build memories or a special occasion spot for power players (or those who aspire to the position).
The menu reflects that baller mindset, with a three-figure seafood tower and spendy caviar service. The eight-steak menu (including even more three-figure options) offers add-ons such as foie gras and lobster tail. Sure, you can play small with an excellent burger or sizable salads, but if you do, you’ll be missing the point. Appropriately, the wine list leads with bubbles by the glass or bottle, while the cocktail list boasts eight takes on a classic martini.
110 S. Delaware St., 317-550-2500, commissionrow.com
