WHETHER YOU’RE A fan of ’80s teen dramas, sci-fi comedies, or romantic musicals, Pins Mechanical Co. has crafted a drink to match your movie taste. The popular old-school entertainment venue has unveiled eight new seasonal cocktails inspired by nostalgic films.

“We wanted to bring these classic movies to life in a way that’s fun and nostalgic,” says Erin Frum, VP of marketing and creative. “Each cocktail is our way of tipping the hat to these films, whether it’s through the flavors, the garnishes, or even the colors. It’s all about giving our guests a little taste of the movies they love.”

The iconic lunch scene in The Breakfast Club inspired the “Breakfast Club,” a mix of vodka, Irish cream, coffee, and chocolate, served with a side of potato sticks. Notes of strawberry and rose show up in the “American Beauty,” a blend of gin, Campari, and amaro—it’s a sophisticated sip worthy of its Oscar-winning namesake.

Creative garnishes appear throughout this cocktail list, most spectacularly in the “Purple Rain.” A cloud of blue cotton candy tops this gin-based cocktail, which blends ube, citrus, and ginger into a pretty pink concoction. As the cotton candy melts into the drink, it transforms into a cool purple hue, a pitch-perfect callback to the purple coat Prince wore in the 1984 musical drama with its classic soundtrack.

Another garnish callback is more subtle. Say Anything made holding up a boom box romantic. The cocktail delivers a fruity mix of cognac, blackberry, plum, and lemon, garnished with berry gummies perched across the top of the glass—IYKYK. Other tasty additions include the “Cliffhanger,” “Richie Rich,” “Moulin Rouge,” and “Mars Attacks,” each promising its own unique flavor profile and garnish.

For those curious about the full drink lineup, Pins has created nostalgic movie posters showcasing each cocktail on Instagram. The complete drink menu is also available at pinsbar.com/menu.

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Guggman Haus Brewing Co.

Made with Oregon-sourced fruit puree, wild yeast, Madagascar vanilla beans, and milk sugars, Guggman’s Cranberry-Tangerine Sour has earned a loyal fan following. 1701 Gent Ave., 317-602-6131; 4601 College Ave.

                                                  Amelia’s

Slather on the butter and sink your teeth into a slice of sourdough studded with plump cranberries and crunchy walnuts. It also makes great French toast. Multiple locations,
317-686-1583

Gather 22

Is this rich pumpkin cranberry bread pudding with white chocolate and a scoop of gelato a dessert? A brunch item? A stand-alone lunch? Who cares. Just order it and enjoy. 22 E. 22nd St., 317-258-2222

Lick

Available between mid-October and Thanksgiving, Lick’s frozen dessert balances tart berries with chunks of buttery shortbread in a smooth ice cream base. “The flavor definitely has a cult following; we get lots of requests to package it in quarts instead of pints!” says owner Meredith Kong. 906 Carrollton Ave., 1049 E. 54th St.

BRU Burger

The popular Gorgonberry Pecan Salad featuring mixed greens, gorgonzola crumbles, cranberries, candied pecans, and bacon comes drizzled with a cranberry-poppyseed dressing. It’s a fresh alternative to the restaurant’s mainstays of burgers, fries, and onion rings. Multiple locations

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Loren’s Alcohol-Free Beverages is no more. The no-ABV bottle shop with two locations in Carmel is now called Orangily, its owners announced this week. In a press release, they say, “By adopting a name and visual identity that resonate with its forward-thinking customer base, the business aims to create a space where everyone feels welcome; not just those abstaining.” The business will sell the same products it always has, just under a new (arguably less descriptive) moniker, which its owners say better communicates the company’s broader interest in “wellness” (as opposed to just living booze-free).

The Turchetti’s Deli brand has also reached its end. The sit-down restaurant arm of Turchetti’s Salumeria at 1106 Prospect St. is now WildFyre Tap, it announced on Instagram. The business—an offshoot of cannabis shop Wildeye Lounge—promises “all your classic Turchetti’s favorites + an expanded menu.” That menu is on two saved stories on Instagram (here’s one and two), with a smashburger, salami pasta salad, and hearty mac and cheese on the current roster.

Niyyah Coffee’s latest location opens tomorrow. As noted back in July, the Fishers coffee shop at 8100 E. 106th St. (317-379-6038) announced an upcoming second location, and now the wait is over: Per Instagram, the doors at its new outpost at 6160 N. Rural St. will open at 10 a.m. Saturday. Expect the same specialty lattes and shaken sugary drinks Niyyah is known for, as well as matcha concoctions, milkshakes, and teas.

Turntable has taken over the old Crackers space in Broad Ripple. The new live music spot at 6281 N. College Ave. recently opened for business, the Star reports. It’s focused on live shows and bands, but with a full bar and robust mocktail menu, I consider it fair Feed territory. A look at its calendar also reveals brunch pop-ups and other tasty events.

Two upcoming Indy hotels promise fresh drinking and dining spots. People who collect IHG points eagerly await the advent of the InterContinental at 17 W. Market St., which the Star reports will open in January. It’ll be home to Astrea Rooftop Bar, which, at 11 stories up, will be the highest rooftop bar in town. A restaurant on the second floor, called Serliana Cafe & Lounge, will serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner—and the chef is Craig Baker, a well-known fixture in the local dining scene whom we profiled in 2021.

Then there’s 21C Museum Hotel Indianapolis, the luxury lodging that’s been planned for the old State Museum/City Hall building at 202 N. Alabama St. since last fall. A recent update from the hotel chain promises “three food and beverage destinations” that will “further provide immersive spaces that spark conversation and create a connection with a signature, locally-inspired, chef-driven restaurant, a lobby lounge and bar, and a rooftop bar.” And with that, I think I just filled my meaningless food and dining buzzword BINGO card—but since none of this will come to fruition until the venue’s planned 2028 opening, I’m sure we’ll be confronted with a whole new slate of restaurant marketing jargon by then.

Bar Ellis will soon open in downtown Noblesville. Current reports sisters Lisa Wampler and Chamron Baird are behind the effort to bring ladylike dining to 841 Conner St. “We felt like many places around here are just slightly more masculine. We wanted to focus more on the girls,” Wampler says. “Men will be here, too. We want couples to come, of course. But we were trying to focus a little more on what we like and what we thought was missing down here.” They hope to open by the end of the year.

CRG’s new Shin Dig is open for business. Indy’s ubiquitous Cunningham Restaurant Group is known for spots ranging from Bru Burger, to Livery, to Vida. Their latest bid for dining destination dominance is Shin Dig, a fun-focused and gently goofy (think cornhole, board games, and casual food such as pizza and wings) spot that feels intended as a breezy departure from the company’s 20 (and counting) other brands. The menu includes playful dish names like the Drove-Over Burger and location-specific nods like the Windsor Park Wedge. It’s kind of fascinating to see this 27-year-old company continue to experiment and iterate when they could just as easily rest on their laurels. Here’s hoping their spirit of inquiry continues. Shin Dig is located at 1351 Roosevelt Ave. in the North Mass area and can be reached at 317-907-6100.

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A big change is in the works at Bluebeard. The lauded Fletcher Place restaurant has long been a first come, first served spot, with diners wandering the neighborhood until their table is ready. But this week, Bluebeard announced that it will start taking reservations for its dining room, via Toast’s online platform. But don’t worry if you’re opposed to advance planning: Seats in the bar room will remain walk-in only. 653 Virginia Ave., 317-686-1580

The Prewitt wants you to check out its igloos. A positive side effect of the pandemic was a wider embrace of outdoor dining, but when the weather turns chilly, restaurants that have grown to rely on those patio tabletops are left out in the cold. That issue prompted a proliferation of outdoor dining “igloos,” clear, heated dining domes that allow the outdoor experience even in winter. A few Indy-area restaurants rolled igloos out last year, and now vintage-movie-theater-turned-dining-destination The Prewitt has hopped on the trend. From November through February, diners can rent one of the spot’s heated rooftop igloos for two hours (price is $25 to rent, plus a $100 minimum food and beverage bill). The structures seat six and are stocked with blankets, Bluetooth speakers, and tabletop firepits. Reservations are open now. 121 W. Main St., Plainfield, 317-203-5240

Pots & Pans pies are now available all over. Clarissa Morley’s nearly 6-year-old Meridian-Kessler dessert shop just landed on food shipping company Goldbelly with a menu of the pie business’s most popular offerings. Orders placed today could arrive at their out-of-town destinations as soon as October 29, but be aware that Thanksgiving orders sell out fast and can take longer to fulfill. So make that plan to send a little taste of home now so you’re not scrambling in November. 4915 N. College Ave., 317-600-3475

Tinker Coffee Co. opens its latest location today. The rapidly growing local roaster snapped up the converted fire station last occupied by Chalet this spring after Chalet’s surprising closure. The new shop, which Tinker Coffee calls The Firehouse, will offer a full food menu (including breakfast), with beer, wine, and low-ABV cocktails at night. Starting on October 25, hours will be 6 a.m.–8 p.m., Monday–Friday, and 7 a.m.–8 p.m. on the weekend. 5555 N. Illinois St.

Pull out your dull knives. McCordsville custom blade maker Aric Geesaman will be at (Best Restaurants 2024 honoree) Nicole-Taylor’s Pasta + Market + Backroom Eatery on Friday, October 25, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., where he’ll be sharpening knives for walk-in customers. He’ll also bring his full inventory of available knives for purchase, which—I know it’s early, but—could be a special and amazing Christmas gift, just sayin’. (You can see his lineup online.) 1134 E. 54th St., 317-257-7374

West Fork Whiskey just traded Kennedy-King for Fountain Square. The Westfield-based distillery shuttered its 7-year-old tasting room last month but teased that a new downtown-area plan was in the works. And now the cat is out of the bag, with WTHR being the first to announce the company is plotting a cocktail bar at 1233 Shelby St. on the ground floor of the recently completed Union Square apartment building. The IBJ reports this is the first commercial tenant for the 70-unit building and will occupy a 1,700-square-foot space. According to the Star, that space will “feature an industrial chic design,” (so we’re still doing that, I guess) and—in addition to booze—will offer a “small snack and finger food menu.”

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The Slippery Noodle Inn at 372 S. Meridian St. has been a consistent presence in Indianapolis since its opening almost 200 years ago. It’s Indiana’s oldest bar to still operate in its original building and is on the National Register of Historic Places.

The old structure is not the sole reason the establishment has garnered interest—with a history so extensive, it’s to be expected that (especially in October) claims that the building is “haunted” will start to circulate. A look back at the building’s past helps explain why.  

The Slippery Noodle first opened as roadhouse and bar called the Tremont House in 1850. According to local lore, it might have also served as part of the Underground Railroad. In 2018, Sara Etherington, the bar’s event coordinator, told CBS4 that formerly enslaved people would “hide out in this building and then catch a train north,” as it “may have served as a hiding spot for slaves during that time.” That loaded part of history kept Etherington out of some parts of the basement, as “Something just doesn’t feel right” in the basement area.  

According to a now-deleted page on the Slippery Noodle’s former website, the building was also home to a brothel until 1853. “Two customers of the bordello got into an argument over one of the women,” the business claimed, “one killing the other and leaving the bloody knife on the bar.” It’s the kind of violent crime that begins many a ghost story, if you believe in such things.

In the 1860s, the business was renamed the Concordia House. One of the first German clubs in Indianapolis, it was named after the first German Lutheran immigrant ship to land in North America and was later renamed Germania House to reflect that affiliation. 

With the start of World War I, German associations were typically avoided, beginning a new series of name changes: Beck’s Saloon, then, as Prohibition shut most taverns down, new owner Walter Moore redubbed it Moore’s Restaurant. (Rest assured, beer and whiskey were still being crafted in the basement.) 

Shortly after Prohibition ended, the Dillinger Gang haunted the bar in real life. Leader John Dillinger, a violent bank robber active across Indiana and Ohio from 1933 to 1934, would often frequent business with his gang. Their presence is still commemorated by lone bullet slugs stuck in the basement walls—supposedly left by “target practice”—though the targets, inanimate or alive, remain unknown. 

In the years following, the bar changed hands a few more times. Harold and Lorean Yeagy took possession of the bar on Friday, the 13th of December, 1963. After a lengthy family debate, they decided to rename it The Slippery Noodle, the name that remained when the couple’s son, Hal, took over the bar in 1985. Hal transformed the space from a lunch counter to a blues club. New owners Jason Amonett and Sean Lothridge, who purchased the business in 2023, haven’t indicated any plans to change much, which will doubtlessly please the ghosts said to occupy the space. 

One such spirit has been given the name “George” by patrons. According to legend, George was a former caretaker who remained on the property after his death. Haunting the basement in a pair of overalls, he has allegedly shocked workers delivering kegs to the basement over the years.  

Another apparition spotted by some is a male cowboy, said to be the victim of that fatal brothel knife fight. Also from that era are phantom sex workers allegedly seen on the second floor, as well as formerly enslaved people who are said to appear in the basement.

Psychic Gary Spivy bolstered those claims when he visited the building and reported a “spiritual hand” sticking up from the basement floor. Spivy also claimed he saw George, and a female entity on the second floor, who communicated through a woman in his group that she was “the madam of the brothel.” The mythology around the supposed haunting was significant enough that Yeagy, who died in 2020 even hosted tours for a time, compiling ghost stories from his life spent around the restaurant.

The Slippery Noodle Inn is currently open seven days a week until the early hours of the morning, with live music featured on one of their two stages almost every night. The restaurant, which promises “Good Food, Booze, and Blues,” doesn’t play up its potential haunting the way it used to—in fact, they declined to speak with Indianapolis Monthly for this story. But during spooky season, those ghost hunters still head out to the venerable restaurant and bar. According to Etherington, “There are some people who come here specifically because they want to see if they can feel a presence or see something with their own eyes.” And if not, there’s always the blues. 

The post The Slippery Noodle’s Haunted History appeared first on Indianapolis Monthly.

SINCE 1938, Sam’s Silver Circle has served thirsty patrons from a character-laden building just off Shelby Street, pouring beer and shots through a world war, a pandemic, and the transformation of Fountain Square. One of its biggest upheavals happened this summer, when national newspaper USA Today put Sam’s on its Bars of the Year list.

“People started calling from out of state and asking where we’re located, because they want to visit,” manager Raeann Eakle says. “We’ve always had a really good, loyal group of locals that come here and hang out.” But when the bars list was announced, she adds, “We got extra busy the next day, and it’s been that way ever since.”

Eakle has enjoyed introducing a new wave of patrons to the longstanding bar. “We don’t know how long this is going to last,” she says of the sudden buzz. “We’re just going to make sure everyone—new or a regular—has a good time.”

1102 Fletcher Ave., 317-636-6288

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The Southern Dunes Golf Course has a new restaurant. You don’t have to hit a ball at the Gary Player–designed course to grab a bite at its Clubhouse Grill, which (per the Star) quietly opened last month. Daily specials include deals on apps, cocktails, and wings. The lunch and dinner menus rely on a selection of Midwestern classics like burgers, pork chops, and a respectable fish and chips. 8220 S. Tibbs Ave., 317-865-1800

King Dough’s new special pizza is foraged fungus fun. For a limited time, the wood-fired pizza spot from our Best Restaurants list is serving a pizza called the Super Shredder, made with three cheeses, chard, onion, basil, and lemon. But the star of the show is hen of the woods mushrooms foraged by Porch Pizza pop-up founder Eric Neylon. It’s reminiscent of a clam pie (oh, stop) but with a richer, earthier edge. Get it before the ’shrooms are gone. 452 N. Highland Ave., 317-602-7960; 12505 Old Meridian St., Carmel, 317-669-2201

IU Indy’s new cafe has a Fever connection. Tea’s Me Cafe, a loose leaf tea shop that also serves a solid breakfast and lunch, has been owned by Olympic gold medalist/Indiana Fever Hall of Famer Tamika Catchings since 2017; it’s since opened a couple additional locations in the city center. A fourth shop recently opened at IU Indy, the Star notes, at 420 University Blvd. (that’s the student affairs building). The opening is fresh enough that its menu isn’t online quite yet, but we’re told online ordering—which will allow you to skip the line, grab your purchase, and rush to class—might be coming soon.

Gather 22 is turning one this weekend. In its first year in the game, the chic restaurant at 22 E. 22nd St. (317-258-2222) was named on our Best Restaurants list and Eater’s Indy 38 and scored a glowing write-up in the Star. Not bad for a one-year-old business, right? It’s celebrating the landmark moment Saturday, October 19, with events running from 10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., including costume contests for adults, children, and dogs; on-the-spot tattoos and piercings; and a gin tasting. 

Hey Now Pizza will now come to you. Low-key hipster pizza spot Hey Now Pizza landed in Beech Grove this summer and generated a following for its nostalgic but ambitious menu of pies, sandwiches, and sides. Delivery was available from an in-house staffer for diners in Beech Grove, while everyone had to make the trip to pick up their Palmerski, Home Run, or cheese bread. This week, the restaurant announced that it has hopped on the DoorDash train, which means even the laziest of us can get their Hey Now fix without leaving the couch. Check the app to make sure you’re in delivery range, and make sure to generously tip your driver.

Indy bars and restaurants are going Full Swift. There’s no way you haven’t heard that Taylor Swift will be in Indy in early November; I even got to write a story for our Circle City section on what her visit will bring to the city. One of the things I didn’t have room to cover was the multitude of Taylor Swift–themed drinks, dishes, and specials our local spots are rolling out in anticipation. Our pals at Axios took the task and ran with it, rounding up all the best Taylor treats you can find in Indy thus far. Now, if someone asks if you know about the Eras bake sale at 4 Birds Bakery or the Swiftie Mac Sampler at Filigree Bakery, you can respond, “Yes, all too well.”

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Photo by Jay Goldz

MARK LAFAY is proof that the cliche “there are no second acts in American lives” is pure bunk. The Purdue grad built a music promotion company while he was still in college, touring the world with bands for nearly a decade. Then he turned to the tech industry, eventually building a social network that—years later—many sought to replicate as users turned away from Meta and X (formerly Twitter). After 10 years, he realized that his days spent seeking startup investors needed to end.

“I was like, ‘You know what? I want to do something that’s the exact opposite [of tech],’” LaFay says. “I was a hunter from a very young age, and I became pretty passionate about barbecue, and curing meats, and doing all that stuff.” He didn’t know much about the rules and regulations behind turning that hobby into a business, but explains, “I thought, I’ll figure it out as I go. So I dove right in.”

The seeds of what would become Old Major Market were planted when LaFay started “selling bacon on the back of my pickup truck to my neighbors,” he says. The popularity of his house-cured staple gave him a path forward. “I decided I needed to focus on sausage. I wasn’t interested in charcuterie. I was interested in what people are eating at every single meal.”

These days, Old Major’s operation is so big that LaFay can produce charcuterie—and loads of other products he likely never dreamed of when he was dealing bacon off his truck, such as seafood and specialty butters. And his venture is only getting bigger. “People really understand that local can be better, from both a quality perspective and an economic one. We help local farmers stay in business, and they connect us with the meat we need to feed our customers. It’s how it used to be and how it can be again.”

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Irvington’s 25-year-old Dairy Queen has closed. Owner David Atherton announced on Facebook that he shuttered the 6245 E. Washington St. business, saying, “I am going to enjoy retirement.” The Star notes that it remains unclear if the business will be put on the market following the closure.

His Place Eatery is the latest local spot with a feature on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. The soul food restaurant (one of our best of the year) will appear on the Guy Fieri–hosted Food Network series at 9 p.m. on Friday, October 11, it announced on Instagram. This season, the show has also featured Argentinian restaurant Che Chori, Pa & Ma’s Backyard BBQ, and Mexican restaurant Tlaolli. You can see what all the His Place fuss is about at two locations: 6916 E. 30th St. (317-545-4890) and 1411 W. 86th St. (317-790-3406).

A weekend fire that scorched the Sunshine Breakfast House and Grill is being investigated as an arson. WTHR reports that the Indianapolis Fire Department has ruled that a series of October 6 and 7 blazes that damaged seven homes, as well as the restaurant at 5116 W. 38th St., were set intentionally. Via Facebook, Sunshine’s owners say the business is temperately closed, but patrons can visit the restaurant’s other location at 884 U.S. Highway 31 N in Greenwood.

Did you know that Indy was once a hot tamale hot spot? Mirror Indy dropped a super fun history of the turn-of-the-century sensation, during which over 300 local venues offered tamales on their menus. These weren’t the masa treats familiar to present-day fans of Latinx food—instead, these 1900s-era dishes were “made with a cornmeal dough, then filled with meat, wrapped in a corn husk and boiled in a spiced brine.” 

Stacey & Rick’s Soul Food is struggling to stay afloat. Rickey Allen Fowler, the owner of the 20-year-old comfort food destination at 3399 N. Sherman Dr. (317-541-1929) tells WRTV that pandemic-era losses have left him “overwhelmed in debt” and “paying out more on my lenders than what actually needs to go into my store.” He’s concerned that without a windfall, the business might be forced to close down and wonders, “What are my options? Who can I turn to?”

Seven people were injured when a driver slammed into Greensburg’s Carriage On the Square Smokehouse. According to a Facebook post by Greensburg police, officers responded to the popular spot on Tuesday after a driver—identified by Fox 59 as former Indiana State Representative Cleo Duncan—allegedly drove a Honda Passenger into the outdoor dining space of the business at 117 N. Broadway St. Two patrons were trapped under the vehicle and were transported to the hospital in critical condition. Carriage on the Square’s owners hope to reopen the restaurant by next week.

The “coming soon” news keeps coming this week. Here are the new Indianapolis restaurants to look forward to in the coming months:

· Fernando’s Mexican & Brazilian Cuisine, a standout on our annual Best Restaurants list, is opening a second location at 888 Massachusetts Ave. That’s the spot that last housed short-lived Mass & Belle Taphouse and, before that, Rooster’s Kitchen. Co-owner Cristiano Rodrigues tells the IBJ that the larger venue will allow them to take on more catering work but that the original location at 834 E. 64th St. (317-377-4779) will remain open. The new outpost’s opening date is TBA.

· Lone Pine, a spinoff of lauded 10th Street restaurant Beholder, will open in Carmel next month. The business, which is planned for 710 S. Rangeline Rd., promises “perfectly aged steaks that are sourced from the best ranches and cooked with intention.” It’s led by Beholder co-owner Josh Mazanowski (high-profile Beholder chef Jonathan Brooks has “no involvement in this new venture” but wishes “these guys nothing but the best,” he says) and is set to open in November.

· The opening date for the Cunningham Restaurant Group’s playfully intended Shin Dig is near, it announced on Instagram this week. The 1351 Roosevelt Ave. (317-907-6100) spot is a casual, family-focused venue that will serve lunch and dinner in a rehabbed warehouse space. Expect pizza, wings, and sandwiches.

· Brazilian steakhouse chain Terra Gaucha will open a Keystone at the Crossing outpost. The open flame grill company launched in Jacksonville in 2015 and aspires to “make its way into the hearts and minds of locals and tourists alike throughout the country.” Its location at 8487 Union Chapel Rd. will open the first week of December, a company rep told IM via email.

The post The Feed: Beholder Spinoff, Fernando’s Comes To Mass Ave, Stacey and Rick’s In Trouble appeared first on Indianapolis Monthly.

WHAT EXACTLY does 24-karat gold add to a plate of risotto? That was the question in the back of my mind as I approached the imposing four-story facade of Tre, which is on the broad plaza of the 1st on Main building in downtown Carmel. A towering wire figure sculpted by artist Jason Myers stands almost as sentinel beside deep blue and windowless doors, behind which is Chris Evans’ high-ceilinged third and unquestionably most ambitious Italian effort, following his two-location pasta spot, Sangiovese. And from the hard-to-snag reservations to the crowds of smiling guests, it’s clear that this is the Italian restaurant many Carmel residents have been awaiting. 

Indeed, a press release in early April made the bold claims that Evans’ 4,800-square-foot “passion project,” which he says is his final restaurant, would offer a “diverse menu” and “exquisite art” to make diners fall “in love with life all over again.” And risotto with edible gold, which most piqued my curiosity. I also wanted to see the polish three decades of running restaurants would bring to Evans’ latest.

Well after its first months of business, however, the menu (which the website warned was temporary) was riddled with typos, not just in obscure culinary terms but also in everyday words like “romaine” and even “gold.” A chef change that brought in former Prime 47 chef Oscar Perez meant the kitchen was still getting on its feet, as well. A promising fried squash blossom starter, while pretty on the plate, was so heavily battered it was limp, not crisp, with a tasty enough but runny red pepper filling.

A platter of fresh oysters came with no explanation of the types from our server. They were presented beautifully, with a brisk mignonette and horseradish-forward cocktail sauce, but the oysters’ adductor muscles weren’t detached, as is customary. That left us to wrestle the flesh out with our Lilliputian forks, not always successfully. A Cognac West from the ambitious cocktail menu was watery and lacked bite. We wondered if the interior design—which included a row of curved brass tubes behind the bar and chandeliers of offset blown glass discs—would be the tastiest part of the meal. 

Thankfully, salads and entrees showed more promise. A tidy mound of roasted red and golden beets, though missing promised watermelon radishes, had a lavish amount of creamy burrata and the right hit of reduced balsamic. Leaning on Evans’ Sangiovese playbook, a generous bowl of pappardelle with “Sunday sauce” was as satisfying as it sounds, especially owing to the short rib in the ragu. The one dish that lived up to the setting was a simply styled yet arresting pan-seared halibut with risotto, which our server steered us toward instead of the one with gold. Here, the gilt was on the crust of the halibut, which broke away in lush flakes above a pool of buttery marsala sauce and truffle-scented risotto with the perfect tooth and creaminess, some of the best I’ve ever had.  

Many of Tre’s early, somewhat puzzling missteps may have been emended by now, given the hard work of Evans’ general manager Francesco Settanni, a native of Puglia, Italy, who arrives early each day to advise the staff. Settanni came to Evans’ restaurants in 2021 after over two decades working at New York City standards, including one used by actor Stanley Tucci in his research for the classic dining film Big Night.

Settani recites regional Italian dishes by heart and waxes poetic about the staples of his home region. Given Settanni’s vast knowledge, as well as local diners’ growing awareness of regional dishes, Tre would be wise to reconsider its commitment to the trappings of luxury in favor of dishes that truly reflect their origins in Liguria, Campania, or Emilia-Romagna.

Instead, there’s a ubiquitous Caesar salad, which we tried on a return visit, perfectly serviceable but so lightly touched on the grill there was hardly any of the advertised char. There’s a delicious pork chop parmigiana, an eye-popping breaded, bone-in cut that’s swathed in house red sauce and bubbling with smoked mozzarella.

And, yes, there’s risotto with gold, which turned out to be a mashup of risotto Milanese and spaghetti carbonara. Visually, it’s stunning—more than answering my question. But with egg in the rice, as well as a raw yolk under the gold leaf, not to mention bits of pancetta and so much saffron the dish glowed, it was almost too rich to finish. I pined for what I’d had with the halibut.

Having tried the respectable tiramisu the first time, we asked what other desserts were made in-house. Our server brought us two scoops of lemon sorbetto the chef was testing, which proved to be bright, creamy, and lusciously true-tasting, a final bite showing a culinary artistry that one hopes, with time, will match the art on the walls.

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