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1. Spirit & Place Festival—November 1–10

IU Indianapolis hosts 100-plus cultural and religious organizations, speakers, and artists across more than 30 events, including exhibits, performances, panel discussions, workshops, and more designed to inspire conversation and reflection centered around this year’s theme, gratitude.

2. The Taming of the Shrew—November 1–10

Bard Fest presents one of Shakespeare’s most popular plays, adapted by community theater leader and Shakespeare enthusiast Dana Lesh, at the Mud Creek Theatre.

3. World Food Championships—November 8–12

More than 300 competitive cooking teams from around the globe battle it out in 12 categories, including Bacon, Live Fire, and Vegetarian, for the coveted title of World Food Champion and a slice of the $450,000 prize purse at the Indiana State Fairgrounds & Event Center.

4. Bands of America Grand Nationals—November 14–16

Music for All’s Bands of America Grand National Championships, America’s premier national marching band event, takes the stage at Lucas Oil Stadium.

5. Drumstick Dash—November 28

This annual run/walk raising proceeds for people experiencing homelessness kicks off Thanksgiving morning in Broad Ripple.

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INDIANAPOLIS WASN’T originally on the Eras Tour list. When Taylor Swift first announced her Eras Tour on November 1, 2022, her “journey through the musical eras of [her] career” skipped the Circle City. It wasn’t until August of 2023 that she added a final leg of concert stops, including Indy’s November 1–3 concerts at Lucas Oil.

Taylor Swift hasn’t played Indy for over six years. The singer broke a Lucas Oil Stadium record on September 17, 2018, when she performed for 55,729 fans during her Reputation Stadium Tour. She’s expected to meet—or break—that number in November.

Her show takes as much time as a fair-weather Indy 500. The Eras Tour is a showcase of Swift’s 18-year career, spanning 11 studio albums—one of which, The Tortured Poets Department, was released after the Eras Tour’s March 17, 2023, kickoff in Glendale, Arizona. The tour, which is Swift’s sixth, is known for its three-plus hour shows, high production values, and multiple wardrobe changes for its star.

A visit from Swift has been characterized as “a Super Bowl in every city.” This was said long before Swift made headlines for her appearance at the actual big game in 2024, during which she embraced boyfriend and Kansas City Chiefs tight end Travis Kelce on the field after his team beat the San Francisco 49ers to win Super Bowl LVIII. But the logistical and economic effect of every Eras Tour stop “is on par with [hosting] the Super Bowl,” U.S. Travel Association spokesperson Spencer Dobkin says.

Swift’s fans are big spenders. Dobkin says that on average, people who buy a ticket for a big-name concert tour triple what they spend on a ticket in expenditures on dining, lodging, and other fun. “A commonly used multiplier is that $100 spent on live performances generates about $300 in other expenses, including spending on hotels, food, and transportation,” he says. But with Swift, that number is way bigger: On the first leg of her U.S. tour, the average concertgoer spent $1,300 on travel, dining, lodging, and other related purchases, pumping tens of millions into local economies.

Her visit has also prompted a mini gig-work boom. Daniel Altman, a spokesperson for short-term staffing app Instawork, says tour date listings for flexible labor near Lucas Oil have spiked by nearly 1,000 percent. Jobs available include parking control, temporary work at downtown bars and restaurants, cleanup of the area before and after the events, and added support at hotels across Marion County.

Forget about getting a hotel room that weekend. Illinois broke its hotel revenue record thanks in part to Swift’s visit, Illinois Gov. J.B. Pritzker said after her stop there last summer, and other cities have announced similar boosts. According to Chris Gahl, executive vice president of Visit Indy, 87 percent of ticket holders for Swift’s local shows are from outside the Indy metro area. That means local hotels have been fully booked since July at rates three times the usual cost for those dates. 

… Or an Airbnb. Airbnb communications director Haven Thorn says that hosts on the platform “earned over $77 million” housing concertgoers on the first U.S. leg of Swift’s tour, news that prompted a new wave of listings on the popular short-term rental app. Searches for Indy Airbnbs increased by 7,000 percent when the local dates were announced, Thorn says, so local short-term rentals are also expected to reach full capacity at rates that exceed those charged during events such as the 500 or GenCon.

It will also be a bad weekend to try to grab an Uber. Ridehailing companies are strongly encouraging drivers to clock in on Swift’s tour dates—and are actively seeking new drivers to sign up and work on that exceptionally busy weekend. If you’re not headed to or from the show those days but still need to hail a ride, be prepared to drop some cash. “Surge pricing is a given,” a driver informed us during a recent airport trip. “Expect Indy 500 prices, or worse.” 

Marion County’s first responders will all be on the clock that weekend, too. Citing issues around security, neither the FBI nor the Indianapolis Metropolitan Police Department were willing to speak on the record about specific steps they’re taking during Swift’s Indy dates. But as one of the country’s top locations for conventions and high-impact events, Indy’s first responders have abundant experience protecting famous folks and their fans. For other events of this nature, IMPD has set up real-time crime centers staffed with people who monitor the hundreds of security cameras placed throughout the city. In addition, deputy fire marshals are typically deployed to keep an eye on capacity at bars and restaurants in the area, as they might become dangerously packed before and after the show. Finally, Marion County Emergency Management launched a new mass texting system this fall to alert participants of any major issues. Text MESAINDY to 67283 to register.

Don’t expect Swift to shake off any credible threats to fan safety. The singer canceled three shows in Vienna this year after law enforcement officials arrested multiple people planning a terrorist attack during her stop there and later said that skipping that stop was the best way to keep her fans safe. Those who know Swift say she won’t hesitate to shut down a show—even at the last minute—if there’s another credible threat. “Taylor’s top priority is the safety of her fans,” says a source close to the singer’s team. “She hates to disappoint anyone, but these are strange times, and sometimes she has to make hard calls.”

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1. Jim Gaffigan: Barely Alive Tour—October 3–6
   Clowes Memorial Hall welcomes fellow Hoosier and seven-time Grammy nominated comedian Jim Gaffigan. A recent co-headliner with Jerry Seinfeld, he’s beloved as a clean comic with relatable, everyday-life sets. 
2. Riley Festival—October 3–6
   They take the birthday of their native son, poet James Whitcomb Riley, pretty seriously in Greenfield. The theme of this year’s four-day party with parades and scores of exhibitors is the poem “A Barefoot Boy.”
3. Headless Horseman Festival—October 3–27
   Gather the family and hop on a hayride to come face-to-face with Washington Irving’s legendary phantom. Keep the fun going by dashing through a corn maze, playing midway-style games, taking in a magic show, and more at Conner Prairie.
4. Heartland International Film Festival—October 10–20
   Our own Heartland was named one of the 25 coolest film festivals in the world. It’s back for its 33rd year at Indianapolis-area theaters. Expect documentaries and narrative films, as well as red carpet events and parties with filmmakers.
5. No Ruff “Dog” Days—October 13
   Wine and dogs in disguise? We’ll see you at Daniel’s Vineyard in McCordsville for their pup costume contest. Enjoy live music and pet-related vendors. Ticket proceeds benefit the Humane Society for Hamilton County.

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IF YOU’RE HEADED to Newfields to kick off Halloween season with Harvest Nights, there are a few tips and tricks to keep in mind.

• Check out which local artist designed each Garden Monster.
• Try a Night Owl Pumpkin Ale, back by demand.
• Take the kids.
• No jump scares or creepy characters, only fun.
• Wear a costume—just not a mask, which isn’t allowed.
• Don’t miss the new projection show at Mischief Manor.
• Premier ticket? Head to the second-floor speakeasy, also debuting.
• Spend Halloween at another first: 21+ night with a DJ and signature cocktails.
• Glow cups go fast. Snag one early.
• It’s open in the rain, so grab that umbrella.
• Buy ticket insurance if you won’t go in wet weather.
• Take photos on the Pumpkin Path of Peril.

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• Don’t let iffy weather deter you; the Johnny Appleseed Festival is rain or shine.
• Park free at the Purdue Fort Wayne campus.
• Note your parking spot.
• Arrive before 10 a.m. and leave by 1 p.m. to beat the throngs.
• Don’t miss the apple-glazed wings or apple dumplings.
• Go beyond fruit with German roasted nuts from Almond Garten and a pork burger.
• Don’t expect alcohol.
• Bring cash for vendors who don’t take cards.
• Wear walking shoes.
• Buy a CD of past festivals’ live music at the Information Tent.
• Leave dogs at home.
• Pay respects at the grave of John Chapman, aka Mr. Appleseed; it’s customary.

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THIS FLANNEL-LINED wool coat was most likely worn by former Union officer Eli Lilly, founder of Eli Lilly and Company, during post–Civil War gatherings like Grand Army of The Republic conventions. The golden buttons bear the Indiana seal, signifying the state for which Lilly served during the Civil War. The coat is considered rare, not only because it belonged to Lilly but also because of its relatively good condition.

That it still exists at all is remarkable, since sack coats, which were a common part of the Union Army uniform for men of all ranks, were usually gifted to Native Americans when they were no longer needed. Lilly was one of the few Union officers who served in all major Army branches as an infantry lieutenant, an artillery captain, and a major in the cavalry. After being captured and released as a prisoner of war by the Confederacy, Lilly earned the rank of lieutenant colonel for his service and bravery.

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PHOTO COURTESY RICK OSTEEN

THOUGH the word “SWINE” arches in slender all-caps over the main entrance to the Farm Bureau Fall Creek Pavilion at the Indiana State Fairgrounds, what happens inside in September is anything but piggish. For six days this month, the 196,000-square-foot building is the site of the All American Horse Classic, transforming the venue into a showcase for 500 high-stepping horses. Red, white, and blue bunting hangs from every wall. Stallion glamour shots line the balconies. An organist plays “Hello, Dolly!” And the centerpiece of the production is a show ring big enough that three semitrucks could parallel park inside it with room to spare.

Judges in tuxedos stand in the center of the ring assessing the horses—and these are the horses of dreams. The breeds at All American boast necks like swans and legs like Rockettes. They are top athletes with supermodel looks in a spectacle that hasn’t changed since the 1890s, when it headlined the state fair as the Society Horse Show. Today, most of Indianapolis has no clue that a window to this history opens at the fairgrounds every year, drawing top horses from all over North America for one of the best horse shows of the year.

More than a show, this is a performance. These horses and ponies— which include the American Saddlebred, the Hackney, the Friesian, and the Dutch Harness Horse—have been bred for beauty, athleticism, and a look-at-me attitude. Non-horse people see them and gasp, “Now those are horses,” as the animals enter the ring five, 10, or 15 at a time. Riders jockey for position to prove how beautifully their mounts can move, but only one can win.

This year, more than $800,000 in prize money is spread across 210 classes, but the major cash is concentrated in a handful of futurities and sweepstakes. Most exhibitors will go home with nothing more than a ribbon. I’m usually one of those ribbon-earning competitors, trotting my horse in and hoping for a good ride but knowing that my winnings might not even cover my stall fee. Kristen Wells, who splits her time between Indy’s north side, San Antonio, and Simpsonville, Kentucky, where she runs a small breeding program called Stonewell Farm, was one of the big winners last year, taking home $15,837 with her colt Crack the Mystery.

But she insists it’s not about the money. “It can’t be,” she says. “We don’t have enough prize money classes in our industry to justify the expenses.” She means that monthly board and training over the years, along with vet and shoeing bills, adds up to more than the prize money. Why choose horses as a hobby, then? Why not knitting, improv, or mountain biking? For people who love horses—and I count myself among the ranks— there’s an invisible line tethering us to them. “I’ve yet to find anything that inspires me the way these horses do,” says Wells.

Claire Panke Broemel, whose history with the show goes back to 1956, says you don’t have to be a horse person to enjoy it. Her father RJ “Steve” Panke directed the show for 36 years, and Broemel worked alongside him and continues counting stalls and filling classes into the 21st century. “Spectators don’t have to know much about it to appreciate it,” Broemel says. “When they see a ring full of these beautiful horses and beautiful ponies, it changes everything.”

PHOTO COURTESY ALL AMERICAN HORSE CLASSIC

Dawn Kendrick, who’s worked on All American in different capacities for 40 years and now manages it, elaborates on the appeal of the horses the media but come to life. The big, black horses carrying knights around? Friesians. The carriage horses in period dramas? Dutch Harness Horses. American Saddlebreds have been all over TV and the movies.” Her tone is dreamy. “I just loved Fury,” she says, referring to the black American Saddlebred stallion from the 1950s Western TV series of the same name.

Anyone who loves horses knows it’s more than swooning over pretty ponies. “Connections are important,” Broemel explains, “and this horse show allows so many connections on a personal and historical level. If you love animals and appreciate competition, it’s a wonderful opportunity to see something that has a tradition going back 100 years.”

My own tradition with All American goes back to 1996, when I was a 10-year-old girl in a dovegray suit showing my horse Americana’s Glamour Boy in the Pepsi Coliseum. Back then, spectators filled the ringside seats. Today, the bleachers of the Fall Creek Pavilion are empty. Only the other competitors spectate, which means the typical horse show watcher is also the typical horse show owner. Usually white, female, and wielding disposable income. She wears a lot of Eileen Fisher, and designer handbags are de rigueur. A lady doesn’t say her age, but many of these women show in the Masters division, which has an age cutoff of 60.

“Typical” doesn’t describe everyone there, though. There are Mennonite families in matching dresses and shirts. Wiry horse trainers with whips sticking out of their back pockets. Tired moms pushing tots in strollers. Twentysomethings in crop tops. At 38 and with no Prada purse in my closet, I’m not the norm, but I’m not alone. There’s a growing population of women like me who have thrown ourselves back into our childhood passion despite what our husbands think about the training fees.

Melissa Moore, part of a multigenerational line of horse trainers, thinks the show can help get families involved with horses. “Not enough children are introduced to horses, and All American is a great way for people to see multiple breeds.” Moore thinks the show is welcoming to all because of the state fairgrounds setting. “The new facility is clean, open, and bright. Spectators are treated to a variety of horses and ponies, as well as booths with information regarding the different breeds.”

The show is free and open to the public, and there’s plenty to do. Concession stands hawk hot dogs for the kids and beer for the grown-ups. Vendors sell equine art, horse-themed antiques, and upcycled tunics painted with glittery ponies. On Friday night, volunteers create a kids’ area where your preschooler can bounce on an inflatable horse while your 8-year-old threads a necklace with horse charms. As a parent, I’m always looking for free, family-friendly activities, and All American is a hidden gem, although there’s no guarantee kids won’t leave with a case of the horse bug. “You either get it or you don’t,” Caroline Boyer of Sheridan, Indiana’s Roselane Farm says of the bug. “But once you have it, you can’t stay away.”

Boyer and her husband Cameron have been bringing horses to this show since the mid-1980s. “The competition is tough,” Boyer says, “and we might not always have the nicest horses at the show, but when we do win …” Cameron finishes her sentence, “Boy, is it fun.” Like many trainers, they clean their own stalls, grow their own hay, and mend their own fences. The day in, day out of horse care isn’t the same as the glitz of the show ring, but it all blends together at the fairgrounds. Women in straw hats and floral dresses step around manure to climb into carts to drive their horses, just as they did at horse shows 150 years ago. How something as old-fashioned as a horse show, with its tinkling organ and 19th-century outfits, is still relevant today must have something to do with the mysterious pull of horses.

“With so much disconnect from over-stimuli and technology, I can’t think of a better way to connect humans with something bigger than themselves,” says Wells. “The horses are very healing in that regard.” That healing horse magic is available for the taking at the fairgrounds every September. We may live in a wired world, with family farms disappearing, but the animals that kept those farms running have never left.

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1. Penrod Arts Fair—September 7
   The Penrod Society hosts its 57th annual single day arts fair at Newfields featuring pieces from more than 350 different artists, live performances, and food and beverages. 
2. Luke Bryan Concert—September 7
   Country singer Luke Bryan makes a pit stop at Ruoff Music Center as part of his 2024 world tour with special guests George Birge, Ella Langley, and DJ Rock. 
3. First Colts Game—September 8
   NFL Sunday night football is back as the Colts kick off  their season by hosting the defending AFC South champions, the Houston Texans, in a showdown at Lucas Oil Stadium. 
4. The 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee—September 18
   The Indiana Repertory Theatre opens its 52nd season with a quirky musical comedy that invites audience members onstage to compete. 
5. Art Squared Festival—September 21
   Let your imagination wander in Fountain Square, where local creators sell their wares and showcase their talents in a live art competition. 

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INDIANA SUMMERS are no time to slow down. True Hoosiers don’t spend their August weekends lounging in the sand, soaking up sun. We prefer to play in the dirt, kicking up clouds of dust beneath the Saturday and Sunday night lights. SPF? Try RPM. And the only “ray” you’ll see from behind your visor is the guy from two towns over trying to pass you on the back straightaway. Gender and age don’t matter as long as you can get behind the wheel and hit the gas. And whether your entry has a sharp color scheme plastered with sponsor decals or you just cobbled together a mess of steel and blank sheet metal, with a little luck, anyone can be a hometown racing hero for one summer night.

…

The Speedrome
Indianapolis

At the Speedrome, the racers of tomorrow start in junior Faskarts—go-karts with cages made to resemble the adults’ Late Models. But the glee of hoisting a trophy—like Koehan West, seated on the No. 33K kart at right—is the same no matter the age and is readily shared among friends. 

Alexa and Kenzie Hughes accompany Koehan in his car.

Billy Pittman is buckled in, gloves on, ready to drop the visor and stand on the accelerator in his junior Faskart.

Paragon Speedway
Paragon

The Saturday-night lights in Morgan County are shrouded in the dust kicked up by sprint cars, Bombers, Hornets, Late Models, and Super Stocks at Paragon Speedway. The high-banked, 3/8-mile dirt oval can barely contain speedsters like Dayton, Ohio’s Matt Freeman in his No. 90 Hornet.

Clayton’s Kenny Fields (with his daughter) in his No. 11F Super Stock.

Anderson Speedway
Anderson

The tight turns of the tiny 1/4-mile bullring short track at Anderson Speedway keep drivers leaning on the wheel, tapping on the brake, and wary of door-to-door traffic. It’s intense enough to wear out even the most energetic young drivers, like 12-year-old Ryder Van Alst, resting beside his No. 35 Late Model.

At small-town raceways, it’s all-hands-on-deck when it comes to dialing in the car during the scant amount of time between the qualifying heat and the late-night feature. Just ask driver Andrew Teepe’s daughter, pacifier in mouth, working the wrench on Dad’s stock car.

Lincoln Park Speedway
Putnamville

Built in 1968, Lincoln Park Speedway sits in the middle of downtown Putnamville. This is where race fans come to watch 410 non-wing sprint cars kick up the Putnam County clay. Without the top wing, these cars have less downforce and are therefore a little bit harder for the driver to control, especially when careening sideways through a turn in the dirt. Roger Arthur (standing) and Jimmy Arthur (kneeling) know the importance of traction on the dirt track.

Joe Boyll understands the value of letting off steam between events.

Megan Cavaness, a local who has been racing here since she was 11, always keeps at least one hand on the steering wheel.

Circle City Raceway
Indianapolis

A newcomer to Indiana’s race scene, Circle City Raceway opened on October 1, 2020, the result of a partnership between the Marion County Fairgrounds and Speedrome owner Kevin Garrigus. Just because the 1/4-mile dirt oval is fresh doesn’t mean the drivers are afraid to tear it up in front of 5,000 fans.

Mike Moody raced cars for 20 years before taking a break to go to college for mechanical engineering. Now retired, he drives a souped-up Monte Carlo “mainly for a good time.” 

A veteran of local oval and dirt tracks before the age of 20, driver BJ Shaw takes a pre-race break in his trailer. Shaw dreams of driving in the Indianapolis 500 someday.

Katie Grigsby, showing off her No. 54B ride at the Circle City Raceway, competes in both the Bomber and Super Stock races.

As the sun begins to set on another summer night, Elizabethtown’s Mike Bechelli climbs into the cab of his Crate Late Model, ready to race for the win. 

Bloomington Raceway
Bloomington

Opened in 1923, Bloomington Raceway has entertained fans for more than a century. Cutting the wheel, sliding sideways through each turn, and accelerating into the straightaway, drivers can’t help but get dirty in their pursuit of checkered glory. 

Logan Calderwood came all the way from Goodyear, Arizona, to take in the spectacle on a Hoosier tire between heats in his 410 Sprint. He’ll face Bowling Green’s Daylan Chambers (below), who’s not afraid to get dirty.

Kokomo Speedway
Kokomo

The Kokomo track has been lighting up the summer Sunday night sky since 1947. The 1/4-mile, semi-banked oval is a stop on several national tours for sprint cars, Late Models, midgets, and Auto Racing Club of America stock cars speeding toward that coveted checkered flag.

Garrett Jameson (in his No. 0 car) and his brother Bradley (below) spend their summers chasing one another in their Dirtcar Modifieds around tracks all over the region. They consider Kokomo their “home track” and relish racing in front of their hometown fans. While their cars may roll out of the double-decker trailer gleaming, they generally come back caked with mud from a hard-fought battle.

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