WHILE IT MAY be closing in on 100,000 residents today, in 1920, Fishers was a railroad town of just under 150 that had only recently dropped the word “Switch” from its name. At the start of Prohibition, there likely weren’t many speakeasies in town with wingback chairs, shimmery flocked wallpaper, and bars wrapped in sculpted tin tiles. That Louisville-based Endeavor Restaurant Group is aiming for just such a low-lit vintage aesthetic at its newest restaurant venture may be surprising, given that everything in Fishers’ rapidly developing downtown seems aimed at showing off contemporary suburban ingenuity. But Cooper & Cow pulls off the retro mystique, both in its sparkle and in its soft-spoken vibe, giving hope that quiet, elegant dinner spots are back in style.
“We weren’t necessarily going for fine dining,” says general manager Matt Bauer, who was brought onto the project last August. “We wanted something with a bit more of a raw look, with a quieter, date night appeal.” To achieve that, Endeavor capped the modest space at just around 100 seats and limited party size to six. Background jazz may be from decades after Prohibition, but you can easily chat over it. And while much of the unfinished look of the former LouVino stayed, including the rustic wood tabletops, the new owners redesigned the cabinetry behind the bar with a rolling access ladder. Bourbon barrels were sourced from spirits vendors as an homage to CEO Steve Ritchie’s ancestor John Ritchie, one of Kentucky’s first bourbon distillers. That means the house Cooperage Old Fashioned made with Sazerac bourbon is one of the smoothest in the city, with welcome rich undertones of two kinds of bitters.
What is less of a surprise is the new concept’s dinner fare. A glance at a list of last year’s restaurant openings makes it clear that, at least when it comes to steakhouses, Indianapolis can’t quit them. For now, Cooper & Cow’s slate of USDA Prime aged cuts is short and overseen by Anthony’s Chophouse and Prime 47 veteran chef Scott Marmaduke, who peppers the menu with plentiful seafood offerings and modern twists, both gilded and dressed down. He dolls up the more typical shrimp cocktail with shell-on lobster tail and Scotch-scented cocktail sauce while at the same time offering a funky deconstructed take on the Chinese American favorite crab rangoon as a hearty dip with wonton chips. More traditional starters pack good flavor but could use some refining. Crab bisque is thick, without the expected lightness of seafood stock or the bracing hit of sherry and brandy. A wedge salad is made less stuffy with a light, bourbon-enriched vinaigrette, but shredded white cheddar lacks much richness or tang. Main dishes, however, are where Marmaduke’s kitchen shines. A platter of ultra-tender, beautifully marbled wagyu flank steak is unlike most chophouse offerings, delicious on its own but even better with a restrained pour of bourbon mushroom cream.
King salmon is lush, flaky, and perfectly seared, with tangy counterpoints from chunky cranberry chutney and aromatic marinated fennel. The risotto on the side may be a bit beyond al dente, but a salty, savory hit of parmesan is a great match to the salmon. The house burger, also made with wagyu beef, is juicy without being messy, and it benefits from a slab-cut slice of crisp bacon and aioli lavished with caramelized onions. A bowl of deeply charred fried Brussels sprouts from the list of sides holds its own against other versions around town, brightened with champagne vinegar and finished with roasted garlic and bits of salty Bresaola.
Cooper & Cow’s arresting multitiered bourbon chocolate cake is the true showstopper, with layers of moist cake and fudgy ganache that are surprisingly less sweet than most steakhouse desserts. An artful crown of cut sugar glass makes it worthy of any birthday or anniversary. Bauer says the restaurant is in the process of renovating its patio to include somewhere around 40 additional seats this spring, with pendant lighting and leftover patio fixtures from LouVino to help carry the interior ambiance outside. Whether the feel leans more toward the Fishers of the 1920s or the 2020s, diners will welcome the comfy swagger, and they’ll feel transported to a time when an intimate, elegant meal in serene environs was more the rule of the day.
COOPER & COW 8626 E. 116th St., Fishers 317-288-2801 HOURS Mon–Thu 5–9 p.m., Fri–Sat 5–10 p.m., Sun 4–9 p.m. VIBE Speakeasy steakhouse TASTING NOTES Prime aged steaks, thoughtful seafood options, and classic sides with rustic modern touches NEIGHBORHOOD Downtown Fishers MUST-ORDER Flaky, moist king salmon with parmesan risotto, tender wagyu flank steak, seared scallops, and a smooth house old fashioned
